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Setting Up To Build Your Wooden Garage
When you start to construct your wooden garage using an interlocking log style kit, there are two means to ensure your building starts square and remains that way.
- First, select one of the long sides and fix it to the concrete base using an appropriate fixing. It is advisable to run a string line along its length to ensure this side is as close to straight as is possible.
- We now want to position the first log of the rear wall at right angles to the first log we have just fixed in place.
- Using the 3-4-5 method to achieve a perfect right angle.
- Measure along log 1 from the join intersect, a multiple of 4. This could be 1x4m or 8x1ft for example – remember the multiple.
- Next, measure along the first log of the back wall, again from the intersect a multiple of 3. So if you used the multiple of 1m for the first side log, this measurement will be 1x3m = 3m or if you used 8x1ft, for the first log of the back wall use 6x1ft=6ft
- Now measure the distance from both marks to form a triangle. If you were using the 1m option, this distance should be 5m when the angle in the corner is a perfect 90° or if using the ft measurement, it will be 10ft.
- So now you have the first two sides set up. Fix the rear wall log in place to prevent it from moving whilst you set up the remainder of the garage.
- Using the same method as above, set up the opposite long wall log shown here in BLUE
- Now add the 2 short returns that form the door opening.
- Check the Diagonals for Square
- Now, if the previous work has gone to plan, the next bit is purely for double checking !
- Measure across the diagonals in both directions. If everything is in order and perfectly square, the distance across both diagonals will be exactly the same. Adjust as necessary !
By using the above methods, you should ensure construction of your timber garage starts in good shape, nice and square !
Although machined perfectly straight and uniform at point of manufacture, it is inevitable that wall logs left to their own devices will alter shape due to changing moisture content and temperature.
The result of these deviations from a perfectly straight log means that during construction, the tongue and groove boards don’t always marry up as accurately as they should – don’t fret (!) This really isn’t a problem. As the walls increase in height and therefore weight, they will settle into their final resting place.
To encourage this correct placement, I use two methods to settle the boards into place, in both cases using a soft faced mallet :
- Wall “Shudder”
During construction and particularly when the walls are at eaves height, a positive blow with the mallet over areas of the wall that you can see are not sitting well will have the desired effect of settling the wall.
Work across the wall both from inside the cabin and from outside until you are happy the wall is settled in place.
- Log Ends Tap
My second method involves tapping the log ends to encourage settlement. Select a corner to commence proceedings and stand in the outside of the cabin. Start at the second lowest log of your chosen wall and tap down on the bevel edge in a downward motion.
This method is also useful when getting the wall logs to end up at the same height at the top of the wall. If you can get the walls level, this will make the roof construction far easier
Note – it is worth selecting a white faced mallet so that it does not leave black “scuff” marks on the timber.