Infrared Heating for a Garden Room: A Plain UK Guide

Infrared heating can work really well in a garden room, as long as the room is well insulated and the panels are put where you actually sit. It warms you and the things around you, not the whole body of air, so it suits a cabin you use for a few hours at a time. Below we explain how it works, how to pick the right output, where to put panels, and what to check before you switch anything on.

TL;DR

• Infrared panels send out radiant heat that warms people and surfaces directly, rather than mainly heating the air.
• Insulation, glazing and draughts matter more than the heater. Sort those first.
• Put panels with a clear line of sight to your desk or seating. Comfort depends on it.
• Running cost is simple sums: kilowatts of heater × hours × your unit rate.
• Keep the room ventilated and get the wiring done by a competent electrician.

Table of Contents

• How infrared heating works in a garden room
• Get the building right first
• Working out the size of heater you need
• Where to put the panels
• What it costs to run
• Infrared compared with other ways to heat a garden room
• Safety and installation checks
• A simple plan, step by step
• Our perspective
• Find a cabin built to stay warm
• FAQ
• Sources

How infrared heating works in a garden room

A normal electric heater warms the air, and that warm air moves round the room. Infrared works differently. The Energy Saving Trust explains that infrared gives warmth mainly by radiation, directly heating surfaces, furniture and people rather than the air itself.

Think of the feeling of standing in the sun on a cold, bright day. You feel warm even though the air is chilly. A panel on the wall or ceiling does something similar.

The government’s own 2025 review of infrared heating, from the Department for Energy Security and Net Zero, says panels deliver most of their heat by radiation to people and surrounding surfaces. That may let you feel comfortable at a lower background air temperature. The same report is honest that there is little real-world evidence yet to prove energy savings. So think of infrared as a comfortable, quick way to heat a small space, not a magic way to cut bills.

Warm surfaces also pass some heat to the air, so the room does warm up over time. What infrared can’t do is fix a leaky building. It doesn’t change how well your glazing holds heat, and it doesn’t seal gaps, as Welltherm points out.

Why it suits a cabin you use now and then

Most garden rooms are not used all day. You might work in one from 9 to 1, or use it for an evening hobby. Infrared panels respond quickly, so you feel the warmth soon after switching on. That makes them a handy fit for short stretches of use, and a timer or smart control can have the room comfortable just before you walk in.

If you’re looking at panel options, infrared heater panel kits give you an idea of how the hardware is put together, including controls.

Get the building right first

This is the part many people skip. A heater can only do so much in a cold box. If heat leaks out through the roof, floor, walls and windows as fast as it goes in, you’ll pay for it and still feel chilly.

Here’s what matters most.

Insulation

The Energy Saving Trust says insulation reduces heat loss, and that the roof is a major route for it. In a house, an uninsulated roof can lose around 25% of the heat. A cabin is a smaller building, but the lesson holds: the roof matters a lot.

For garden rooms, Homebuilding’s guidance treats insulation as the first priority. It reports a practical minimum of 75 mm for floors and walls and 100 mm for roofs, with double glazing where possible. That’s an editorial recommendation rather than a rule for infrared heaters, but it’s a good yardstick when you compare cabins.

When you choose a cabin, look at:

• wall thickness (thicker logs hold heat better)
• whether the roof and floor can be insulated
• double glazing on doors and windows
• how well the joints and door frames are made

These are all things you can pick on our garden log cabins, and if you want something different, we can adjust them for you (more on that below).

Glazing

Big windows are lovely. They also lose heat. Welltherm notes that lots of single glazing, a poorly insulated roof and plenty of draughts all push up heat demand, and that frames and the joins between windows, floor and roof all count. Double glazing is the easy win here.

Draughts

The Energy Saving Trust says draught-proofing blocks gaps around windows and doors so warm air stays in and cold air stays out. It also warns you not to block trickle vents or ventilation grilles, because controlled ventilation is still needed. If you suspect your cabin is leaky, our guide to spotting and fixing drafts in a garden cabin walks you through it.

Working out the size of heater you need

People always ask for a simple number, like so many watts per square metre. Sadly there isn’t a reliable one. Welltherm explains that a bigger room with good glazing and an insulated roof can lose less heat than a smaller room with single glazing and gaps. Heat demand depends on:

1. room size
2. insulation
3. glazing
4. draughts
5. the indoor temperature you want
6. how cold it gets outside

That’s why an online calculator is best used as a starting point. One UK infrared heating guide suggests following up with a fuller heat-loss calculation if you want an accurate answer. An installer or the heater supplier can help with this.

A practical tip: if you’re between two sizes, think about whether the heater has a thermostat or can be dimmed. A slightly larger panel on a thermostat gives you spare power on the coldest mornings without running flat out the rest of the time.

Where to put the panels

Placement is the thing that surprises people most. The government’s user trials found that comfort was affected most by line of sight. If you aren’t in view of, or fairly close to, the panel, you may not feel comfortable.

So don’t pick the spot that looks neatest. Pick the spot that sees you.

• Desk or office: aim the panel at where you sit, ideally from the side or front, so it covers your upper body and legs.
• Seating area: mount it so the sofa or chairs are in view.
• Hobby room or studio: think about where you stand or work for longest.

The DESNZ review also reports that ceiling-mounted panels were more efficient than wall-mounted ones, and that radiant efficiency of roughly 40 to 70% depends on things like rear insulation and room position. The report adds that much of the supporting evidence is limited. In a pitched-roof cabin, like our apex roof cabins, you have a good amount of ceiling and wall space to choose from, so it’s worth planning before the electrics go in.

If you have a larger layout, such as a multi-room log cabin with an office on one side and a lounge on the other, treat each room as its own zone. One panel won’t reach round a corner.

What it costs to run

The maths is easy. The hourly cost is the heater’s wattage divided by 1,000, multiplied by your electricity price per kWh. The UK guide we mentioned uses the same formula, and its 30-day estimate assumes 4 hours of use a day. Your real bill will depend on thermostat use and how often you’re in the room.

Here’s a made-up example to show how it works. Say you have a 600 W panel and pay 30p per kWh. That’s 0.6 kWh × 30p = 18p an hour. Four hours a day for 30 days is 120 hours, so about £21.60. Swap in your own unit rate from your latest bill and your own heater size to get a figure that fits you.

Two things push that number down:

• a thermostat that cuts the power once the room is warm
• a timer or smart control so the panel only runs when you’re using the room

The government report also makes a useful comparison. Infrared panels give one unit of heat for each unit of electricity, while a heat pump can give roughly three. So if you plan to heat a big building all day, other options may be worth a look. For a cabin used for a few hours, the simplicity and low install cost of panels is the draw.

For a wider look at what a winter might cost in a well-insulated room, see our guide on garden room heating costs.

Infrared compared with other ways to heat a garden room

Infrared isn’t the only choice. Here’s a quick, fair picture of how it sits against the usual alternatives.

The efficiency figures come from the DESNZ report. One UK guide notes that infrared is often chosen for garden rooms because it responds quickly and heats where you are, which makes sense for on-and-off use. Whichever you choose, the same rule applies: insulation first, heater second.

Safety and installation checks

A few checks will keep things safe and your cabin in good shape.

Electrics

A fixed panel needs a proper supply. In England, new circuits and certain electrical work in garden buildings fall under Part P of the Building Regulations. As this council guidance explains, that work must be notified to Building Control or be done by an installer registered with a competent-person scheme. Rules differ across the UK, so check yours. Electrical Safety First also says electrical installation should be done by competent people, and that equipment used outdoors should be plugged into a socket protected by a 30mA RCD.

If you plan to use a plug-in portable heater, switch it off when you leave and unplug it overnight or when you go out.

Surface heat

Infrared panels can run hotter than a standard radiator, usually below 100°C, says the Energy Saving Trust. Ask the retailer or installer whether your chosen model is suitable for where you plan to put it, and keep it clear of curtains, boxes and anything that could touch it.

Ventilation and damp

A warm, sealed timber room can get condensation if the air has nowhere to go. The DESNZ report notes that ventilation must be maintained in well-heated timber buildings to avoid condensation and moisture, which can damage the structure over time. The Energy Saving Trust also cautions about cold spots and possible damp or mould if the air temperature is kept too low.

The fix is simple: keep vents clear and open a window for a little while each day. Our guides on ventilation in garden rooms and stopping condensation explain how, and if your room gets too warm in summer, there’s a guide on beating garden room overheating too.

A simple plan, step by step

1. Choose the cabin spec. Thicker walls, insulated roof and floor, double glazing.
2. Draught-proof. Check door and window seals before you add any heater.
3. Decide your zones. Where will you sit, work or relax?
4. Size the heater. Use a calculator to start, then ask an installer to check it.
5. Pick the position. Clear line of sight to the occupied area.
6. Add controls. A thermostat and a timer or smart control.
7. Get the wiring done properly. Competent electrician, RCD protection.
8. Keep air moving. Vents clear, a short daily airing.

Our perspective

We get asked about heating all the time, and our answer is always the same: start with the cabin, not the heater.

A well-built log cabin with thick walls, a properly insulated roof and floor, and double glazing holds warmth far better than a basic box. Once the building is right, infrared is a lovely, simple way to take the chill off, because you feel it where you sit. No fiddly pipework, and you can switch it on only when you need it.

That’s where our bespoke service comes in. If you want an office on one side and a cosy lounge on the other, a particular door position, extra windows on the south side or none on the cold side, we can adjust our standard range to suit. You decide where the desk goes, and we help plan the cabin so a panel can see it.

If you’re not sure what spec you need, just ask. It’s much easier to plan the heating before the cabin is built than after.

Martin

Find a cabin built to stay warm

Want a garden room that’s easy to heat? Our bespoke log cabin service lets you change sizes, wall thickness, layouts, doors and windows, and add features like insulation and double glazing. We deliver across the UK mainland, and you can also ask about professional installation.

If you’d rather browse first, take a look at our garden offices, garden summer houses and garden pavilions. Or get in touch and tell us what you have in mind, and we’ll help you work out a spec that suits your space.

FAQ

Is infrared heating good for a garden room?

Yes, it can be, especially in an insulated room used for a few hours at a time. It warms you and the surfaces around you, and you feel it quickly. It works best when the room has good insulation, double glazing and few draughts.

What size infrared heater do I need for a garden room?

There’s no reliable watts-per-square-metre figure, because heat loss depends on insulation, glazing, draughts and how warm you want the room. Use a calculator to get started, then ask an installer or the supplier to check it against your cabin’s spec. A thermostat lets you use the extra power only when you need it.

Can I run infrared heating all day in a log cabin?

You can, but it’s usually best for sensible, timed use. Panels give one unit of heat for each unit of electricity, so heating all day adds up. Use a thermostat and a timer, and keep the room ventilated so damp doesn’t build up.

Do I need an electrician to fit an infrared panel?

For a fixed panel and new wiring, yes. Electrical work in garden buildings should be done by a competent person, and in England, new circuits fall under Part P. Ask for the work to be done by an installer on a competent-person scheme, and use RCD protection.

Sources

• Infrared heating explained, Energy Saving Trust
• Infrared heating: investigations from literature and user trials, DESNZ
• Infrared heating for a garden room, Welltherm
• Five things to prepare your home for winter, Energy Saving Trust
• Heating a garden room: the options explained, Homebuilding
• Infrared heating for garden rooms in the UK: complete guide
• Electrical Safety, Milton Keynes Council
• How safe is your home, Electrical Safety First
• Infrared heater panel kits

Recommended

• £150–£200 Winter Heating Cost For A Well Insulated UK Garden Room
• Insulated Garden Rooms Explained: Complete UK Guide
• Beat Garden Room Overheating: 7 Quick UK Fixes + Spec Checklist